The enigma that is the sadhu’s style - a sea of unending fabric mysteriously wrapping itself upon itself, to create an aura, a cocoon, a sensuous drape - finds itself engineered into the modern, structured, sensual drape, characteristic of Tarun Tahiliani, for this year’s Autumn-Winter ’13 Collection
An effortlessness that lets the fabric be, a Kumbh mystery, unlocked; the faith of saffron, reconstructed!
Glimmers of sunrise saffron meet exuberant outbursts of fiery, marigold (genda) oranges, in ombre embroideries; deep blues and aubergines, the colour of midnight skies (the kinds you mull upon in Kumbh-induced awakenings), at play here, embracing a multitude of techniques, designs and fabric - including laser etching, zardozi, appliqué, bandhani, jamewar, tie and dye, velvet, animal prints, satin, thick jersey - to reveal a sensual Autumn-Winter 2013.Skirts, kurtis, jackets, dresses, the signature Tarun Tahiliani concept saris, gilets and accessories too (from bags to belts and stoles, and bajubandhs), are all imbibed with the distinct mood of India Modern - nestled deep within the designer’s own sensibilities. The silhouettes are clean, but complemented with the strokes of drapes, the designer’s trademark, and are yet completely wearable. In fact, this studio shows samples exactly as they are to be worn, and yet, there is a huge range of possibilities in the looks, because of the strictly adhered to colour palette, which allows for a completely uninhibited mix and match. So, wear a draped jersey skirt with a jersey and organza kedeo inspired jacket. Or switch to a folded drape – the possibilities are limitless, allowing for a true reign of expression, which is how it should be, when fabric is genuinely draped on the body.There’s a whole lot of room for the impromptu mood cross-looks and separates that ensure you can try on that black Rabadi jacket with the asymmetrical drape skirt, as well as the folded drape skirt, if you so wish; or how about that sheer silk jacket with a plain top and palazzo pants. And the kamandal bag, perhaps, and one-of-a-kind statement pieces that need no second guessing – the pre-stitched sari drape in blue, bandhani with shibori and ajrakh, for instance; and that rouche flounce dress in hand-textured chiffon, in deep sunset crimson, with that gilet.Styling, colour, pattern, embroidery, silhouette, and above all, layering, come together to showcase the heightened, ephemeral emotion of the Mela. “A spectacle of effortless originality”, is how Tarun Tahiliani described his deep dive into the aesthetics and madness of the Kumbh he visited recently.